I painted my countertops!
Before I get into the tutorial
(or before you pick up a paint brush, rather),
please be sure to click HERE for a detailed Q&A post about painted countertops.
Painted and waxed countertops are higher maintenance.
It’s a gorgeous look that needs to be treated & cared for like painted furniture,
especially if you opt to use a wax.
Waxing or sealing them with a polyacrylic is not as durable as the original laminate surface,
although a reader commented below that an exterior sealer is much more durable
because it’s designed to withstand moisture, etc.
Makes perfect sense.
If I had to do it over again, I’d probably use an exterior sealer.
Keep in mind, that it will sort of defeat the purpose of using Chalk Paint in terms of
the buttery lustre you get with the wax!
(I still think it provides an easy and good lookin’ base coat though.)
I only painted my countertops for temporary prettiness
until we installed zinc tops.
COUNTER TOP TUTORIAL:
One of the great things about using Chalk Paint is that you don’t need to prime or sand.
However, when it came to my counter tops, I did a little prep work.
I lightly sanded my counter top surfaces with a fine grit sanding sponge
just to give them some tooth and ensure that any grease residue, etc. was completely gone.
These are countertops.
I used STIX Waterbourne Bonding Primer, tinted gray.
I painted my counter tops with a mix of Graphite and Pure White
to get more of a concrete color.
I used these smooth, white nylon brushes.
After two coats, I let everything dry for 24 hours.
After the initial coat,
dip just the tip of your brush into a shallow plate of water and THEN into your paint
so that the second coat goes on smoothly and glides over the surface more easily.
I’ve noticed that Chalk Paint® tends to grip subsequent coats.
Where did I get my stencil?
It’s a Jeanne d’Arc Living stencil purchased from Ruth at The Beautiful Life.
At one point, I considered painting faux grain sack stripes down the middle
using painter’s tape to guide me, distressing them a little with my sanding sponge after they dried.
After the Graphite coat was good and dry, I adhered my stencil to the counter top.
The JDL stencils have a tacky backing.
Using a rag dipped in Pure White paint,
I blotted the excess off so that the rag was barely covered,
and dabbed the paint into the stencil to give it a variegated, time-worn look.
You can see where I blotted my excess paint off next to “EXTRA“.
When I needed a rag refill, I’d just dab my rag onto that little section to pick up more paint.
(A paper plate would work fine too.)
After the paint dried for about 20 minutes, I carefully peeled off the stencil.
After my paint dried, I waxed them using Annie Sloan’s Clear Soft Wax.
Really push that first coat of wax into the paint.
Apply 3 or 4 light, thin coats, letting each coat dry at least overnight in between.
Then do a good buff to bring out that smooth lustre after your final coat is dry.
As mentioned in the Q&A post, it takes about a month for the wax to fully cure.
I recommend letting your countertops cure for at least a week before normal use.
(The time factor is also where an exterior sealer might be preferred.)
as well as her Wax Questions post.
About once a month, I needed to apply a fresh thin coat of wax
because it wore down sooner than expected after constant washing.
I was careful to wipe up water splashes from the faucet right away
to avoid white water spots (see Q&A),
set my hot pans on a trivet, and chop on wooden cutting board, etc.
As always, if you have any questions, just ask.
Again, make sure you read my Q&A post because that answers a bunch.
Have a lovely week!
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